March, 2022
We woke to sunshine and a few domestic problems which had to be sorted back home, which was quickly enough done, and after a delightful breakfast served at our table (buffet breakfast browsing still not currently allowed in Italy), we hopped on the two hotel bikes - which luckily none of the other guests clearly felt like using - and set off to explore the beautiful city of Romeo and Juliet.
There is no better way to get around an historic Italian town that by bicycle. Most of the little old cobbled streets are largely traffic-free and, certainly for those situated like Verona in the Po Valley, they’re flat as a pancake. When we lived in both Padua and Milan, le bici were our preferred form of transport. Easy to park, good exercise and so much faster than going on foot. I know that’s kind of stating the obvious, yet still it never ceases to amaze me how much ground you can cover in such a short space of time! Not only that, somehow you feel more part of the life of the city rather than tramping around like a tourist and ending up with blisters and sore feet. You blend in better - and I always like to blend when I’m abroad!
So first of all we whizzed around the enormous piazza in front of the magnificent Roman Arena where the locals were just living their daily lives, moving from A to B, having a panino (sandwich) on the park benches or a coffee in the numerous cafes which line the broad pavements with their large, polished pavimenti stones worn smooth and shiny by the passage of feet and time.
From there, we headed into the Centro Storico and found our way to the tourist trap that is supposedly
Juliet’s house with the famous balcony where Romeo wooed her. Which of course it isn’t, but it’s a great marketing ploy! The ‘security guards’ told us we couldn’t wheel our bikes in and a shopkeeper told us off for leaning our bikes against the wall next to her shop so, already irritated, we glanced in, saw all the people taking turns to stand on the balcony and have their photo taken, for an overpriced entrance fee, and decided to give it a swerve. We’d seen it before anyway. (But please don’t let me put you off!)
So instead we headed off to quieter streets and soon found ourselves by the beautiful Adige River which flows through the city from its mountain source in Alto Adige near the Swiss/Austrian borders, to its exit into the Adriatic Ocean, 250miles (410km) later…
Turning left off the delightful little cobbled street with its colourful ancient houses which hugged the Adige, we came to a square with one of Verona’s most important churches: the gothic
Chiesa di Santa Anastasia (click the link for all you need to know). Construction began in 1280 and was completed in 1400 and it is most notable for its collection of art and sculpture by famous Veronese artists, together with its beautiful painted domed and arched ceiling, and marble flooring.
After all this cycling and culture lunch was calling - and I’d spotted
Ostregheteria Sottoriva 23 under the porticoes near the river. Classic red and white table cloths, a good looking array of wines - what more could you want? The food was delicious too!
After a jolly lunch and duly sated, we then took a look at the
Duomo - you can buy tickets which include entry to all four key churches - which did not disappoint either. There is much to discover, as you will see if you click the above link. My eye was particularly caught by the ergonomic wooden benches we found inside; on discussion with the ticket seller, we found out that they were indeed new and had created much controversy as traditionalists felt they were too modernistic. I, however, found them rather beautfiful, their plain curves echoing the curve of the altar entrance and the colour and cylindrical design of the monumental pillars of marble. But each to their own…
From here to the ancient
Roman Ponte Pietra (Stone Bridge) and a cycle down the north side of the river towards the
Castelvecchio (Old Castle) Bridge and its associated museum. This segmental arch bridge featured the world’s largest span at the time of its construction.
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| Ponte Pietra |
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| Castelvecchio Bridge |
But now it was time to get the bikes back to the hotel, say goodbye to this iconic and very beautiful city, and to head north up the Autostrada towards our next destination - the tranquil shores of Lake Garda.
To be continued….
Top Tips for Verona
- hire a bike, or book a hotel which has bikes like ours (Hotel Milano & SPA, via 3 Marchetti)
- spend a minimum of 24 hours there
- take a stroll or cycle ride along the banks of the Adige river
- get lost in the old streets of the Citta Antica (Old Town)
- enjoy a coffee or well-earned drink at a cafe in the Piazza Bra (next to the Roman Arena) while watching the passing scene
- wander down the shopping street of Via Mazzini which leads off the Piazza Bra
- take the funicular up to the Castel San Pedro for a stunning hilltop view of the city
- enjoy a classic Italian meal in one of the many old Osteria or Trattorias, such as the Trattoria il Baccaro on via 3 Marchetti
- key sights to visit are the ancient Roman Arena, Juliet’s House (Casa di Julieta), the old castle (Castelvecchio), and the Ponte Pietra (Roman stone bridge)
- Christmas in Verona is incredibly atmospheric and special: from November through December there are nativity scenes in all the churches, Christmas markets and the stunning comet at the Roman Arena - a sight not to be missed!
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